India of the Nawabs: Culture, Crafts and Cuisine with John Zubrzycki

New Delhi, India’s capital, is a captivating blend of ancient history and modern vibrancy, a modern metropolis that reflects India’s progress while keeping its heritage alive. We stay two nights in New Delhi, based at The Imperial, the city’s first grand hotel, opened in 1936. An urban oasis complete with an outdoor swimming pool, spa, and a wealth of dining and drinking options. Overnight: The Imperial, New Delhi

Meals:  Nil

We commence our two days of exploration of sites associated with the Delhi Sultanate beginning with the UNESCO-listed Qutub Minar complex. Rising to a height of 73 metres, the Qutb Minar is the tallest brick minaret in the world and a stunning example of Indo-Islamic Afghan architecture. Next the minaret is India’s oldest mosque, the Quwwat-i-Islam as well as numerous tombs, a madrasa and stunning Alai Darwaza or gateway built during the period of the Mamluk or Slave dynasty. We continue on to Mehrauli Archaeological Park, a mix of gardens, lakes and woodlands dotted with historic monuments the late Sultanate and early Mughal era as well as British colonial times. Our afternoon journey continues with a walk through Sayyid and Lodhi-period tombs of Lodhi Gardens, among the fine and best-preserved pre-Mughal buildings in Delhi. Finally we make our way through the narrow streets of the old urban village of Nizamuddin to visit the shrine of Delhi’s most revered Sufi saint, Nizamuddin Auliya Overnight: The Imperial, New Delhi

Meals:  B,D

After breakfast we visit some of Delhi’s lesser-known Sultanate monuments starting with the tomb of Sultan Ghiyasuddin Tughluq and the adjacent sprawling ruins of Tughluqabad. Nearby is Chirag Dilli, one of Delhi’s oldest neighbourhoods, dominated by religious and secular Sultanate-period structures including the dargarh of the14th-century mystic poet and a Sufi saint Nasiruddin Mahmud Chirag-Dehlavi. We continue to the Purana Qila the location of one the city’s most beautiful mosques, the Qila e Kohna Masjid, built by the Afghan warlord Sher Shah in the 15th century. After lunch at the Lota Cafe and a short tour through the adjacent Crafts Museum we proceed to Humayun’s Tomb, a stunning example of Mughal architecture. Its grand central dome, red sandstone walls, and symmetrical gardens greatly influenced the Taj Mahal. The day concludes with a leisurely stroll through the adjacent Sunder Nursery, home to a number of Mughal-era tombs and structures. After dinner at our hotel we board the overnight sleeper class train to Lucknow.

Meals:  B,L,D

Lucknow, the bustling capital city of Uttar Pradesh, is where our deep dive into Nawabi culture begins. The reign of the Nawabs of Awadh in the 18th and 19th centuries helped make Lucknow a thriving centre for art, music, literature, and architecture and the heartland of Sufism, a mystical branch of Islam. We begin by visiting one of Lucknow’s architectural masterpieces the Bara Imambara. Built by Asaf-ud-Daula in the 1780s as a part of a famine relief effort, it is one of Lucknow's earliest attempts to recreate the form of Mughal grandeur. The nearby Jama Masjid is exquisite blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture. After lunch with visit the 19th century Chhota Imambara built by the third nawab of Awadh, Muhammad Ali Shah. A fusion of Charbagh, Indo-Islamic, and Persian design and construction styles, it is a monumental masterpiece. The day concludes with a tour of the Hussainabad Baradari, which contains a gallery featuring portraits of the Nawabs of Awadh painted between 1882 and1885 by visiting European artists. We will spend four nights at the Saraca Hotel, an Art Deco-style bungalow featuring colourfully tiled patios and terraces, breezy passageways framed by wooden latticework and candlelit courtyards. Overnight: Saraca Hotel, Lucknow

Meals:  B,D

After breakfast we drive from Lucknow to Mahmudabad. Now a small town, it was one of the largest taluqdaris (estates) under the Mughal rule and the House of Mahmudabad traces its lineage to the Banu Taim - the tribe of the first Caliph of Islam, Abu Bakr. Mahmudabad’s Qila or fort is breathtaking and stepping into its walls is like stepping backing in time. Divided into the ladies' apartments or the 'mahalsara' and the men's apartments or 'mardana', it also includes a family mosque and a number of imambaras or Shia congregational halls. The Qila houses one of the best private libraries in India with books in English, Arabic, Persian and Urdu, and an extensive collection of manuscripts. After lunch we walk through fields of mustard and orchards of mango trees to view three shrines dedicated to Imam Ali, Imam Hussain and Hazrat-e Abbas. These architectural replicas of the originals in Iraq were built by the family in the 19th century. We also visit the now deserted palace of Bilhera, one of the few examples of Georgian architecture in the region. We return to Lucknow for a curated dining experience and cultural show at Mahmudabad city palace in the historic precinct of Kaiserbagh. Drive approx 3 hours total Overnight: Saraca Hotel, Lucknow

Meals:  B,L,D

The morning will be for relaxing and taking in the charm of our heritage hotel. After lunch we visit the ruins of the British Residency, the site of the Siege of Lucknow in 1857 before proceeding to La Martinie`re College. Originally known as the Constantia, it was built in 1845 and house the tomb of Claude Martin, a French Major-General who switched sides and joined the East India Company, before coming to Lucknow where he made his fortune. This landmark building, which features carved arches and richly decorated balconies, is now one of the city's most prestigious educational institutions. In the evening tour, we enjoy a curated dining experience at Kotwara House, the residence of one of the oldest royal families of Awadh. Situated in the Qaiser Bagh area of Lucknow, this royal residence of the present Raja Muzaffar Ali is a living museum of art and craft. Overnight: Saraca Hotel, Lucknow

Meals:  B,D

Today we are explore the craft traditions of Lucknow. The city is famous for Chikankari a unique craft involving delicate and artistic hand embroidery in a variety of textile fabrics including muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, doriya and organdi. An expert in Lucknow’s craft traditions will explain the history of the craft while taking us to some of the cooperatives that have been set up to keep Chikankari alive. The afternoon is free time to relax by the pool, or wander the vibrant markets and shops in Hazratganj, where you will find traditional handicrafts, textiles and jewellery. Overnight: Saraca Hotel, Lucknow

Meals:  B,D

We take a morning flight to Bhopal, the capital city of the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh and known as the “City of Lakes”. Bhopal is unique because it had a succession of four female begums who ruled this princely state from 1819 to 1926 and were known for being trailblazers in the political realm and in social reform. The begums of Bhopal also left their stamp on the city’s architecture and culture. After lunch we wander through narrow lanes of Bhopal’s old city visiting old palaces and mosques until we reach the Taj-ul-Masjid (literally Crown of the Mosques), the largest in India. Dominated by two 18-storey minarets, the mosque was constructed during the reign of Shah Jahan Begum. When then stop at the Tribal Museum which celebrates the living aspects of tribal life, indigenous knowledge systems, and aesthetics of the tribal communities of Madhya Pradesh and other parts of central India. For our three nights in Bhopal, we stay at Jehan Numa, perched on the Shamla Hills. Built in 1890, it is a stunning blend of British Colonial, Italian Renaissance, and Classical Greek architecture, with spacious rooms and refined elegance. Overnight: Jehan Numa Palace Hotel, Bhopal

Meals:  B

We drive to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Sanchi. The 3rd century BCE Buddhist monastic complex is famous for its stupas, monolithic Ashokan pillar, temples, monasteries and sculptural wealth. Originally commissioned by the emperor Ashoka, the Great Stupa at Sanchi is one of the oldest stone structures in India. We also explore the Udaygiri Caves, believed to have been carved around the 5th century. Here we’ll see Jain, Buddhist and Hindu religious art, with rock-cut caves and remarkable sculptures such as the Buddha in meditation. Drive: approx 5 hours total Overnight: Jehan Numa Palace Hotel, Bhopal

Meals:  B

Our day trip to Bhimbedka Caves offers a rare glimpse into India prehistoric human life and early art, as well as the evolution of stone age cultures. The UNESCO-listed site consists of over 750 rock shelters that date back over 30,000 years and was only discovered in the 1950s. On our return we visit the 11th century Bhojeshwar Temple, a masterpiece of Hindu temple architecture. Drive approx 3 hours total. This evening is yours to enjoy free time around the hotel or explore Bhopal further. Overnight: Jehan Numa Palace Hotel, Bhopal

Meals:  B

A morning flight brings us to Hyderabad. Known as the “City of Pearls”, it was a hub for centuries of pearl traders and jewellers whose shops still stand in its famous Old City. The Nizams of Hyderabad were India’s wealthiest rulers, as evidenced in the grandeur and opulence of the city’s numerous palaces and monuments. After settling into our hotel we visit the Chowmahalla Palace, the official residence of the Nizams during their reign, which has been converted into a museum. After visiting nearby Char Minar located in the centre of the Old City, we plunge into the narrow laneways of the old city to craftsmen making the city’s renowned silver filigree and bidri ware. We then drive to the 19th century Falaknuma Palace, now a luxury hotel operated by the Taj Group for high tea. Here, our final stay of the tour, we will spend three nights at Taj Krishna, the epitome of luxury and grandeur in the heart of the city. Overnight: Taj Krishna, Hyderabad

Meals:  B,D

Exploring Hyderabad further, we see the magnificent Golconda Fort, built by the Qutb Shahi rulers in the 16th century. The fort is spread over 11 kilometres, with walls 10 metres high in parts, along with elaborate gates, bastions, secret tunnels and towers. The Golconda mines, produced some of the world’s most famous and valuable diamonds, including the Koh-i-Noor, now part of the British Crown Jewels. Adjacent to the fort are the UNESCO-listed Qutb Shahi tombs which thirty superbly restored tombs, mosques and a mortuary bath After lunch we venture into the old city to see Hyderabad’s havelis starting with the home of fashion designer Vinita Pitti with its glorious courtyards and gardens. From there we visit the exquisite Paigah family tombs which have been carefully restored by the Aga Khan Trust. The Paigah nobles served as generals in the Nizam’s armies and are credited with erecting many of the city’s finest palaces and buildings. The afternoon concludes with a visit to the Salar Jung Museum with its vast collection of antiquities, paintings, sculptures, manuscripts, and decorative arts. In the evening we visit the opulent home of Dilnaz Baig, famous for her Dastarkhan-e-Naaz, a specially curated dinner in typical Hyderabadi ambience. With decades of experience and a passion for preserving culinary heritage, Dilnaz Baig's dishes reflect the rich cultural tapestry and gastronomic delights of Hyderabad featuring Deccani dishes handed down over the generations. Overnight: Taj Krishna, Hyderabad

Meals:  B,D

On our last morning we visit the British Residency, the setting for William Dalrymple’s book The White Mughals. This opulent mansion built by James Achilles Kirkpatrick, the British Resident of Hyderabad between 1798 and 1805. Today it is part of the Osmania University College for Women and has been converted into a museum. The building with its classical portico is in the style of a Palladian villa and is similar in design to its near-contemporary in the United States, the White House. The rest of the day is free time to do some last-minute before our final dinner at the Firdaus restaurant in the Taj Krishna. Overnight: Taj Krishna, Hyderabad

Meals:  B,D

Our tour concludes after breakfast in Hyderabad. We can reflect on the wealth of experiences that we have taken in over the past two weeks, gaining a deeper understanding of the history, culture, food and arts of this less visited side of India.

Meals:  B