NEW Trip – Kyrgyzstan & the Tian Shan MountainsJoin 19 August 2024 Departure

28 Days$13640USD

  • 18 day trek/mountaineering
  • 8 nights hotel
  • 19 nights camping
  • 24 Dinners
  • 24 Lunches
  • 27 Breakfasts
Advanced Mountaineering Expedition
Technical Grading: Extreme

Trip highlights

  • Climb a 7000m peak on the crest of the Great Himalaya range
  • Maximise your climbing experience and gain from the expertise of renowned NZ mountaineer Dean Staples
  • Experience high level of support (1:3 climbing Sherpa to climber ratio) and quality equipment in order to maximise your chances of summitting
  • Appreciate the ancient Buddhist culture of Ladakh (Little Tibet)
  • Savour unrivalled views of the Trans-Himalayan Range
  • Explore ancient monasteries and forts in the upper Indus Valley

Why Book With Us

  • Led by experienced mountaineering guide trained in wilderness first aid with group medical kit.
  • Excellent support with portable altitude chamber, oxygen for emergency use and careful planning to maximise your chances of success
  • Spend time acclimatising in remote, little visited valleys and trek towards the Boktol pass
  • Fully supported camping expedition with three hearty meals freshly prepared each day.

Join the widely respected and infinitely experienced Dean Staples on a climb in the remote Zanskar region in Ladakh. Our objective, the beautiful 7077m Kun, is situated south of the Indus Valley in the Trans Himalaya and is part of the Nun Kun massif which rises between the Great Himalaya range and the vast Tibetan plateau. First climbed in 1913, Kun was not ascended a second time until 1971 and presents an opportunity for interesting and varied climbing, the crux being an imposing ice face where fixed ropes will guide the way to the upper plateau. More technical than other 7000m peaks, participants will require an excellent level of fitness, solid technical skills, and previous ascents above 6000m to be accepted on this expedition. Those who join will be supported by second to none climbing Sherpas from Nepal with a 1:3 climbing Sherpa to climber ratio, quality equipment, nourishing food and excellent leadership. Dean Staples is a highly respected and deeply knowledgeable mountaineer who has has successfully guided Mt Everest nine times and is the first New Zealander to summit the mountain from both North and South sides. Under his tutelage you are assured of encouragement, support and excellent decision making, ensuring the best possible chance of summit success. Having spent an extended period of time Gulmarg as a ski guide, he has long looked at Kun from afar and is very excited to be heading our expedition to climb it in 2024.

Trip Code: KUD

On arrival in Delhi you will be met by a World Expeditions representative and transferred to your hotel, with the day spent at your leisure. Your leader will conduct your initial expedition briefing at a time to be advised locally. Your World Expeditions kit bag will be distributed after the briefing and the evening is free to relax and prepare for your adventure. Overnight: Hotel

Meals:  Nil

After breakfast, we will visit the Indian Mountaineering Foundation for our briefing and to meet the Liaison Officer who will be joining our expedition. The remainder of the day is free to explore Delhi and make final preparations. Overnight: Hotel

Meals:  B

We board an early morning flight from Delhi to Leh (3500m) where you will be rewarded with spectacular views across the Great Himalaya and Zanskar ranges. On arrival in Leh it is essential to rest and start the all-important process of acclimatisation (and also catch up with some sleep after the very early morning start). Our schedule today will be flexible and depend on how everyone is adjusting to the altitude, it is imperative to rest, relax and acclimatise. In the afternoon we will have the opportunity to climb to the Victory Fort (above the Palace) built in the 15th century to commemorate Ladakh’s independence from the invading armies from Baltistan and Kashmir. From the Palace we can also appreciate the alleyways that comprise the old town of Leh, located to the east of the main bazaar and appreciate the wonderful panoramic view back over the Indus Valley to the south. You’re sure to fall in love with Ladakh from this great vantage point! Overnight: Hotel

Meals:  B,L,D

Today we have a full day sightseeing some of the outlying forts and monasteries in the Indus Valley. We include a visit to Shey Palace – the capital of upper Ladakh - until the Royal family moved to Leh in the 17th century. We may also visit the nearby Tikse monastery perched on the summit of a sugarloaf mountain with commanding views down the Indus Valley. The monastery has a truly remarkable history which can be traced to the 14th century and the founding of the Tibetan DeGulug order that was to have a profound influence on Buddhist culture in Ladakh and western Tibet. A visit to the monastery includes time to appreciate the monks daily lifestyle and how its has adjusted to the modern day demands of the 21st century. In the evening we can either ascend to the Shanti Stupa and savour a magnificent sunset across the Stok range or take time to check your gear yourself in preparation for departure tomorrow. Overnight: Hotel

Meals:  B,L,D

We complete an exhilarating drive from Leh to the thriving town of Kargil before diverting up the Suru Valley to the village of Panikhar, a village steeped in Balti traditions. Like Kargil, it traces cultural horizons to Skardu and Gilgit (now in Pakistan). As we approach Panikhar we gain our first magnificent views of the Nun Kun Massif, the highest peaks in the West Himalaya. That night we camp close to the village. Overnight: Camping

Meals:  B,L,D

We set off this morning to complete the three hour trek to the meadow at Donara. In the summer the Bakharval or goat herders from Jammu and Kashmir graze their flock on the surrounding pastures ringed by snow capped peaks. From our comfortable base camp we explore terrain which we explore and acclimatise in the next few days. Overnight: Camping

Meals:  B,L,D

We have reserved three days to ascend the high mountain valleys immediately east of the Nun Kun massif. On our first day we ascend towards the Boktol pass (Lonivad Gali) (4860m) following an ill-defined trail marked by rock cairns that winds through the extensive lateral moraine. We ascend until we are in sight of the pass before returning to Donara. On the second day we have the have an opportunity to explore a remote glacial valley east of Donara again ascending as high as possible before returning to camp. The third day re ascend the trail to the Boktol pass this time reaching the crest of the pass that affords panoramic views of the meadows, glaciers and peaks that form the Kashmir Himalaya. We are well placed to explore this magnificent rugged terrain as the Boktol pass crossing was one of the highlights of our classic Himalayan Traverse linking Kashmir to Ladakh which we operated between 1978 and 1989 before the outbreak of political unrest in Kashmir. We are pleased to be able revisit this area in more stable times once more. Overnight: Camping

Meals:  B,L,D

We start early to complete our return trek to Panikhar from where we will complete the short drive to Gulmotanga. En route we gain unrivalled views of the tumbling Kun glacier that flows into the Suru River, before ascending to a series of vast open meadows including Gulmotanga. Overnight: Camping

Meals:  B,L,D

At Shafat Nala our expedition gear will be loaded onto our pack horses before we cross the bridge over the Suru river - the bridge being rebuilt each year to accommodate the expeditions on Kun. We then gradually ascend with our pack horses to the base camp, walking up to the moraine and our base camp where we will prepare for our expedition to summit Kun (7077m). Overnight: Camping

Meals:  B,L,D

We have ample time and contingency days to climb our objective, Kun at 7077m. Dean and our Nepali climbing sherpa team will work together and fix the route and select the campsites on the mountain. We route we intend will entail three camps, the highest being approximately 6200m and within striking distance of the summit. The most technical section is between camps 1 and 2, with a steep ice wall of approx 50 degrees. After camp two, we will traverse a 4km plateau of snow and ice, with the two 7000m peaks, Nun and Kun at each end. In general, the climbing is moderately angled with a few prolonged steeper sections and some mixed ice and rock pitches. Alpine starts will be required and there is a need for us to move efficiently and to work well as a team to meet our objective. All the preparations and a positive, tempered attitude will pay off. The route will be determined as the conditions dictate. The exact schedule will depend on many factors, including the weather, condition of the route and condition of the members. With incredibly experienced staff and a time buffer, we have a fair amount of flexibility to achieve success for all who have worked hard from the beginning of the expedition. Summit day will be long, and this is where all the training beforehand and the right attitude will combine to give you stamina and confidence to be part of a sound team, with optimum chances for the summit. The awe-inspiring scenery is just reward. From here we can view beyond the Zanskar range while to the north are the unmistakable peaks of the Karakoram. Overnight: Camping

Meals:  B,L,D

Feeling exhilarated by our adventure, we pack up and once our horses come up to collect the baggage, start trekking (5-6hrs) down to Shafat Nala where we will join our vehicles, retracing our drive to Kargil. We will have time to reflect and savour the adventure we have shared. Overnight: Hotel

Meals:  B,L,D

Travelling through the vastness of Ladakh enroute to Leh. On arrival the afternoon is free to stroll through the markets and pick up some souvenirs before you return home. Overnight: Hotel

Meals:  B,L,D

An early morning back over the main Himalayan range to Delhi. On arrival we shall be met on arrival and transferred to the IMF for debriefing. Overnight: Hotel

Meals:  B

The trip concludes after breakfast with a transfer to the airport.

Meals:  B


  • 27 breakfasts, 24 lunches and 24 dinners
  • World Expeditions mountaineering leader
  • 1:3 climbing Sherpa/climber ratio
  • Safety equipment including portable altitude chamber and group medical kit
  • Good quality accommodation in Delhi, Leh and Kargil
  • Two person dome tents, group camping equipment, toilet tent & mess tent
  • All internal transport by car, private bus or jeep
  • Arrival and departure transfers in Delhi
  • Internal flights Delhi/Leh/Delhi valued at USD$250 including 27 kg total luggage allowance
  • Souvenir World Expeditions kit bag
  • Full service including 3 hearty meals each day on trek/climb
  • Pack horses to carry all personal and group equipment (40kg pp for personal and share of group equipment)
  • Sightseeing as specified in the itinerary
  • All group climbing equipment including fixed ropes
  • Briefing & debriefing with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and Liaison Officer to accompany the trip
  • Running kitchen at Kun B.C. throughout the climbing period
  • Climbing permit for Kun
  • High Altitude porter on the mountain with 15 kg of personal gear carried plus group equipment

  • International flights
  • Lunch & dinner in Delhi
  • Bottled water, aerated & alcoholic drinks
  • Items of a personal nature such as phone calls, laundry etc
  • Airport departure taxes
  • Tips
  • Visa
  • Travel insurance
  • Personal technical climbing equipment including ice axe, harness and crampons
  • Snacks/energy gels/rehydration tablets etc for summit period (bring enough for a 3 day summit climb)
  • Any and all costs associated with leaving the expedition early or any changes to the itinerary as described
  • Personal porter or excess baggage requirements over and above those included
  • sleeping bag or Thermarest type (self-inflatable) mattress

About Your Leader

Dean Staples - Mountaineer&#160;-&#160;<i>Photo:&#160;Dean Staples</i>

Dean Staples is a qualified UIAGM / IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide with over 30 years of climbing and mountain guiding experience. Dean has successfully guided Mt. Everest nine times, becoming the first New Zealander to summit Everest from both North and South sides.Dean has climbed six other 8000m mountains including Cho Oyu 4 times, Shishapangma, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu & Broad Peak. In 2013 climbed Lhotse & Everest together in just over 24hrs. He has also climbed Ama Dablam in the Himalaya, Mt Vinson in Antarctica (4 times), Alpamayo in Peru, Aconcagua in Argentina, Carstenz Pyramid in Indonesia, Mt Blanc in Europe, Mt Khuiten in Mongolia, Peak Lenin & Khan Tengri in Kyrgyzstan (both over 7000m) and a host of other peaks around the world. Dean’s passion is the mountains, and personal climbing has also taken him to many parts of the world, climbing frozen waterfalls in Canada, big wall Aid climbing in Yosemite & Zion, USA, and rock climbing in Australia, Europe & China. Dean’s interests are turning toward filming in the mountains, documenting peoples’ experiences at altitude and in extreme places. His footage of the summit day on Everest was used by Discovery channel, and he was the cameraman for a re-enactment of the first ascent of the second step on Everest, North side, in 2007. Dean lives in Wanaka, NZ, with his partner Lydia Bradey, the first woman to climb Everest without oxygen, and still the only New Zealander to do so. Having spent numerous seasons as a ski guide in Gulmarg, with the towering Kun visible on the horizon, Dean is excited to be leading our expedition to climb the peak in 2025.

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Your trip price includes:

  • Internal flight valued at 250
  • Park Fees valued at 600
Options & Supplements*
    *Prices listed are per person

Essential Information

Ready to book? Make sure you download and read the detailed Kun Expedition (7077m) with Dean Staples trip notes which contains all the essential information you need to know before booking. Once you’ve booked, we will supply you with a Pre-Departure document which contains a detailed gear list and other important information to help you prepare for your adventure ahead.

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 When you book one of our adventures, you will receive quality services at the best prices with plenty of inclusions. There are no hidden costs, single travellers don’t pay more and you’ll enjoy many ‘extra touches’ that ensure your holiday is excellent value for money.

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