Our journey from Huaraz to Vaquería, the starting point of our trek, provides a great introduction to Peru's Cordillera Blanca. Traveling through the fertile Callejón de Huaylas Valley, we are surrounded by towering snow-covered peaks, traditional Andean villages and terraced farmland cultivated by local communities for generations. Near Yungay, we stop at Campo Santo, a moving memorial to one of Peru's most devastating natural disasters. In 1970, a powerful earthquake triggered a massive avalanche of ice, rock and debris from Mount Huascarán, burying much of the town and claiming thousands of lives. Today, the memorial gardens provide a place of remembrance for the victims and their descendants.
Continuing into Huascarán National Park, we pass the striking turquoise waters of the Llanganuco Lakes, where we stop for a picnic lunch surrounded by dramatic mountain scenery. The road then climbs through a series of switchbacks to Portachuelo de Llanganuco Pass (4,767m / 15,640ft), one of the most spectacular mountain passes in Peru. From here, we are rewarded with sweeping views of the glaciated summits of Huascarán (6,768m / 22,205ft), Huandoy (6,395m / 20,981ft), Pisco (5,740m / 18,832ft) and Chopicalqui (6,354m / 20,846ft).
Descending to Vaquería (3,699m / 12,136ft), we leave our vehicle behind and begin our trek into the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. The trail leads through a traditional Andean community, where farming and livestock grazing remain central to daily life, before continuing into the green Huaripampa Valley.
This relatively gentle first walk allows us to settle into the rhythm of trekking at altitude while enjoying views of the surrounding peaks and highland landscapes.
On reaching Huaripampa Camp (3,590m / 11,778ft), set amid green pastures beneath the towering mountains, there is time to relax and take in our surroundings before the more demanding trekking days ahead.
Hiking: 4.7km / 2.9mi Ascent: 194m / 636ft | Descent: 276m / 906ft
Accommodation: Wilderness camping
Meals: B,L,D