Cultural touring beneath Bologna's covered stone porticoes, Italy

Italy food tour, two Aperol Spritz cocktails on an outdoor café table

Lake Garda balcony with stone balustrade and flower urns overlooking the water

Bolzano townhouses with ornate turrets and green tiled roofs against a mountain backdrop

Verona's terracotta rooftops spread beneath a tall bell tower in the historic center

Lake Garda peninsula with lakeside villas and cypress trees beneath green hills

Hiking in the Dolomites. - Alps to Aperitivo: Northern Italy with Ben Groundwater, Italy

Hiking in the Dolomites. | Tim Charody

casa setaro - Alps to Aperitivo: Northern Italy with Ben Groundwater, Italy

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Alps to Aperitivo: Northern Italywith Ben Groundwater

Walk and eat through Northern Italy, from the rustic mountain food of the Dolomites to the culinary heartland of Emilia-Romagna.

Italy

11 Days from

Trip Code: BGAA

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Essential Information

Duration

11 Days

Activities

Food and wine discovery
Day walks
Hands-on cooking class
Local producer visits and wine tastings
Private boat journey

Accommodation

10 nights in quality hotels and characterful country stays

Meals

5 Dinners
5 Lunches
10 Breakfasts

Difficulty Grading: 3 / 10
Introductory

Trip highlights

Travel alongside Ben Groundwater on an active food and wine journey through Northern Italy, from Verona to Bologna
Taste your way through Emilia Romagna, with hands on cooking in Bologna, visits to producers of iconic Parmigiano Reggiano and balsamic vinegar, and long Italian lunches
Walk a wine trail through the vineyards of Alto Adige, tasting Gewürztraminer, and enjoy a hosted four-course wine pairing dinner at our winery stay in Valpolicella
Walk beneath the limestone peaks of the Dolomites, discovering rustic mountain food, local cheesemakers and the food traditions of South Tyrol, including a Slow Food dinner
Experience Lake Garda by private boat and on foot, walking the historic Strada del Ponale overlooking the lake

Overview

From high trails beneath the limestone peaks of the Dolomites to vineyard paths in Alto Adige, a private boat journey across Lake Garda and the celebrated kitchens of Emilia-Romagna, Alps to Aperitivo explores Northern Italy in the best possible way, on foot, around the table and with a glass of something local in hand.

Join travel and food writer Ben Groundwater on an active journey through one of Europe's most diverse food landscapes. Walking is at the heart of the experience, taking us through alpine meadows and mountain villages, past jewel-like lakes, among vineyards and high above the waters of Lake Garda. These walks connect us with the landscapes, people and produce that shape the food and wine of each region.

Lunch in traditional mountain huts, meet cheesemakers, taste Gewürztraminer among the vineyards of Alto Adige, cruise Lake Garda by private boat, and enjoy a four course wine pairing dinner in Valpolicella.

In Emilia-Romagna, discover the craftsmanship behind Parmigiano Reggiano and traditional balsamic vinegar and roll up your sleeves for a hands-on cooking experience in Bologna. And then there is aperitivo: that wonderfully Italian moment when the day's walking is done, the pace slows and everyone comes together over a drink.

Throughout the journey, Ben brings together his twin passions for active travel and great food, sharing the places, flavours and traditions that have made him fall in love with Italy.

Itinerary

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Arrive in Verona, where our Northern Italian adventure begins. Over the coming days, we’ll explore the remarkably diverse food traditions of Northern Italy. Our adventure begins in Verona, a city of elegant piazzas, Roman history and lively wine bars. Best known as the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, Verona’s real story stretches back more than 2,000 years, with layers of Roman, medieval and Venetian history. We meet our host, Ben Groundwater, and fellow travellers over dinner in a traditional osteria. Before dinner, there’s time to experience one of Italy’s favourite daily rituals - aperitivo. More than simply a pre-dinner drink, aperitivo is a chance to ease into the evening over a glass of local wine or a classic Spritz, often accompanied by small snacks. It’s a tradition that takes many different forms across Northern Italy, and one we’ll happily embrace throughout our travels. Accommodation: Hotel Scalzi, Verona (or similar)

Meals: Nil

Leaving Verona, we make our way north into the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed mountain range defined by its limestone peaks and picturesque mountain villages. As we travel through the Dolomites, we'll experience the unique Alpine culture shared across Trentino and neighbouring South Tyrol, where centuries of Austrian and Italian influence have shaped everything from the architecture and languages to the wines and cuisine. Arriving in the Val di Fassa, we take the cable car to Ciampedie, where a scenic walk unfolds beneath the Dolomites' peaks. Our trail leads us to a traditional mountain hut, where we enjoy a rustic lunch that may include local favourites such as Tyrolean dumplings and regional cheeses. Later, we transfer to our hotel, where there is time to relax before dinner. Distance: 6km / 3.7mi Accommodation: Hotel El Paster, Fassa Valley (or similar)

Meals: B,L,D

Our walk begins beside the emerald waters of Lago di Carezza, continuing through forest, mountain meadows and rocky landscapes towards the Carezza Pass, with views across the surrounding Dolomite peaks. From the pass, our trail descends through the mountain landscape towards Moena in the Val di Fassa. Walking gives us a wonderful sense of the terrain and farming traditions that have shaped the life and food in these valleys for generations. And there is good reason to work up an appetite. In Moena, our walk leads us to a local mountain farm and dairy producer for lunch and a tasting of locally made cheeses. Here, livestock farming, cheesemaking and Ladin culinary traditions remain closely connected to the surrounding landscape. The afternoon is yours to wander Moena's streets, browse food shops or simply relax with a coffee in one of the village cafés before returning to our hotel for dinner. Distance: 11km / 6.8mi Total ascent: 240m / 787ft Total descent: 583m / 1,913ft Walking time: 4 hrs Accommodation: Hotel El Paster, Fassa Valley (or similar)

Meals: B,L,D

After two days exploring the Dolomites on foot, the pace eases this morning with time to make the most of our family-run mountain hotel, perhaps taking a swim in the heated pool or unwinding in the Finnish sauna and Turkish bath, all included in your stay. We then set off for Ortisei, the main village of Val Gardena in South Tyrol, where there is time for your own lunch and exploration. Here the landscape is intertwined with the region's Ladin heritage, an Alpine culture that has flourished in the Dolomites for centuries, seen in colourful buildings, woodcarving traditions and artisan workshops. Later, we travel through Val di Funes for a Slow Food experience and dinner, celebrating a movement that originated in Italy and champions local food traditions and producers. We finish the day in Bressanone (Brixen), one of the oldest towns in the Tyrol, where medieval streets, baroque architecture and lively piazzas reflect South Tyrol's blend of Italian and Austrian influences. Accommodation: Hotel Grüner Baum, Bressanone (or similar)

Meals: B,D

Before leaving Bressanone, we explore its historic streets on foot, then head south through the heart of South Tyrol, travelling first to the village of Collalbo on the Renon Plateau. Here we board the historic narrow-gauge Renon Railway, a scenic journey through forests, alpine meadows and traditional villages before reaching Bolzano, the capital of South Tyrol, where Italian and Austrian cultures meet. This blend of cultures is reflected in everything from the architecture and wines to the local cuisine, while both Italian and German are widely spoken in the city. As evening approaches, Bolzano's piazzas come alive as locals gather for aperitivo. This evening we enjoy dinner in a traditional South Tyrolean stube (pronounced shtoo-buh), a warm timber-lined dining room serving hearty regional dishes and local wines. Accommodation: Parkhotel Laurin, Bolzano (or similar)

Meals: B,D

The morning is yours to explore Bolzano’s vibrant old town. In the afternoon we travel south into the vineyards of Alto Adige (South Tyrol). Sheltered by the Alps yet warmed by Mediterranean sunshine, this area produces elegant, cool-climate wines that reflect both its geography and the combined Austrian and Italian influence. Today's walk follows the Gewürztraminer Trail, winding through vineyards around the village of Termeno (Tramin), the birthplace of the Gewürztraminer grape where we'll have the opportunity to taste the wines produced in this area. The evening is free to enjoy more of Bolzano. Distance: 4.5km / 2.8mi Total ascent: 138m / 453ft Total descent: 170m / 558ft Accommodation: Parkhotel Laurin, Bolzano (or similar)

Meals: B

Leaving the mountains behind, we travel into the wine region of Valpolicella. Here, gentle hills lined with vineyards, olive groves and stone villages reveal yet another side of Northern Italy, where winemaking has been part of daily life since Roman times. Known around the world for its elegant Amarone, Valpolicella, with harvest just around the corner, the vines should be heavy with fruit. Our home for the next two nights is a beautifully restored mid-19th-century country farmhouse surrounded by vineyards and olive groves in the heart of Valpolicella Classica. This afternoon there's time to settle in, relax in the garden and enjoy the views across the vines before a special evening at the winery. We begin with a cellar tour, followed by a hosted four-course wine pairing dinner celebrating the flavours of Valpolicella. Accompanied by the winery's wine specialist, we'll discover the wines of the region, including Amarone, and how they complement each course of locally inspired cuisine. Accommodation: Dimora Buglioni, Valpolicella (or similar)

Meals: B,D

Today is spent at nearby Lake Garda, where steep mountains descend towards the water and colourful lakeside villages line the shore. At Riva del Garda, we take to the water aboard our private boat for a two-hour journey across Lake Garda before returning to Riva for a lakeside lunch. We then set out on a walk along the historic Strada del Ponale, a remarkable road carved into the rock in the 19th century to connect the Ledro Valley with Riva del Garda. Now a walking and cycling trail, it follows the mountainside high above the lake, with views opening across the water and surrounding mountains and remnants of historic military fortifications built into the rock. Upon reaching the panoramic viewpoint at Belvedere, we return to Riva before travelling back to our country farmhouse among the vineyards of Valpolicella, where the evening is free to relax and perhaps enjoy an aperitivo as the sun settles over the vines. Distance: 5km / 3.1mi Walking time: 2 hours Accommodation: Dimora Buglioni, Valpolicella (or similar)

Meals: B,L

We travel into Emilia-Romagna, widely regarded as the culinary heart of Italy and home to some of Italy’s defining ingredients, including Parmigiano Reggiano, traditional balsamic vinegar, and handmade pasta. Our day begins with a visit to a Parmigiano Reggiano producer, where we’ll learn how one of the world’s most recognisable cheeses is still made using time-honoured methods. We continue to nearby Modena, home of traditional balsamic vinegar. Here we’ll discover how this extraordinary condiment is patiently matured in a series of wooden barrels, often for decades, before enjoying a tasting that reveals its rich depth and complexity. Afterwards, we sit down to a long farm-to-table lunch showcasing the outstanding produce of the region. Later, we check in to our hotel in Bologna, where the evening is free to enjoy the city. Accommodation: Starhotels Excelsior, Bologna (or similar)

Meals: B,L

Bologna, affectionately known as La Grassa (“The Fat One”) for its rich culinary traditions. Beneath its kilometres of UNESCO-listed porticoes, the city’s red and terracotta-coloured buildings, medieval towers and lively piazzas are home to markets, delicatessens and family-run trattorias. Explore the city on your own this morning before we come together over lunch for a hands-on cooking class, preparing traditional regional dishes before sitting down to enjoy what we’ve made, accompanied by local wines. We'll gather for one final aperitivo, the perfect way to celebrate the stories and flavours we've shared from our own Alps to Aperitivo adventure with more time to enjoy Bologna as you wish tonight. Overnight: Starhotels Excelsior, Bologna (or similar)

Meals: B,L

Our Northern Italian adventure comes to an end after breakfast. Bid farewell to Ben and your fellow travellers before making your onward journey.

Meals: B

Ready to start your adventure?

1 scheduled departure between 13 Sep 2027 and 13 Sep 2027.

Departs 13 Sep 2027 – ends 23 Sep 2027 (11 days)

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What's included?

Included

Hosted by Ben Groundwater
10 nights quality hotels and country stays - on twin share basis
6 dinners and 5 lunches showcasing ingredients and traditions of the regions
10 breakfasts
Two hour private boat tour on Lake Garda
Gewürztraminer wine tasting and a wine pairing dinner in Valpolicella
Cooking class in Bologna
Parmigiano and balsamic vinegar tour and tasting
Experienced local guide
Cable cars for walks in the Dolomites
Private transport days 2 through 10

Not included

Travel to Verona and from Bologna
Travel insurance (compulsory)
Single supplement - payable when staying in your own room
Airport transfers
Meals & drinks not noted on itinerary
Tips

About your guide

Ben Groundwater is one of Australia's best-known travel and food writers, who has spent almost 30 years exploring the world's great food regions and the people, landscapes and traditions that shape them. A two-time Australian Society of Travel Writers' Travel Writer of the Year, Ben is a columnist and feature writer for The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age, and the author of six travel and food books. Ben has also been sharing his passion for travel by hosting small-group food and travel experiences, taking curious travellers beyond the obvious to discover the people, places and traditions that define a destination. He loves combining his twin passions - active travel and great food - and believes few places in the world do both better than Italy.

Extra trip info

Accommodation FAQs

Verona hotel room with a sliding door to an ensuite bathroom

Verona: Hotel Scalzi

A simple boutique hotel with beautifully decorated rooms, conveniently located just 500 metres from Verona’s Arena and historic centre, and 700 metres from Verona Porta Nuova railway station.

Bolzano Hotel Laurin | Bolzano Hotel Laurin

Bolzano: Parkhotel Laurin

Dating from 1910, the elegant Art Nouveau Parkhotel Laurin sits in the heart of Bolzano, surrounded by its own leafy garden. Original artwork, designer furnishings and historic details give the hotel plenty of character, while the garden pool and atmospheric Laurin Bar – complete with original Art Nouveau frescoes – make this one particularly suited to the spirit of Alps to Aperitivo.

Double room at the Stars Hotel, Bologna, with twin bedside lamps and armchair

Bologna: Starhotels Excelsior

An elegant, contemporary hotel conveniently located opposite Bologna’s main railway station, making it an ideal base for easy arrival and onward travel. Modern, comfortable interiors provide a relaxed city stay.

Valpolicella farmhouse bedroom with timber-beamed ceiling and antique iron bed

Valpolicella: Dimora Buglioni Wine Relais

Set among vineyards and olive groves in the heart of Valpolicella Classica, Dimora Buglioni is a beautifully restored mid-19th-century country farmhouse with a warm, intimate atmosphere. Its garden and terrace overlook the surrounding vineyards, while breakfasts featuring homemade cakes, biscuits and seasonal produce add to the feeling of staying in a welcoming Italian country home.

Fassa Valley Hotel El Paster indoor pool | Hotel El Paster

Dolomites: Hotel El Paster

Family-run for almost 50 years, a traditional Alpine-style hotel overlooking the Monzoni and Catinaccio mountains. Warm timber interiors and panoramic balconies reflect its mountain setting, while the restaurant celebrates the culinary traditions of Trentino. A heated pool and wellness area with Finnish sauna and Turkish bath offer a welcoming place to unwind.

Bressanone: Hotel Grüner Baum

A historic, family-run hotel in the centre of Bressanone, Hotel Grüner Baum is just steps from the cathedral and main square. Its central location is complemented by extensive wellness facilities, including indoor and heated outdoor pools, saunas and a Turkish steam room.

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The trip is graded Introductory, with a mix of relaxed sightseeing, eating, and day walks through the Dolomites, vineyards and around Lake Garda. The walks in the Dolomites are not long or difficult but the terrain will be rough and uneven underfoot. The walk on Lake Garda is to a viewpoint so a little uphill is required.

Please let us know about any dietary requirements when booking so these can be considered in advance. As this is a food-focused journey, some experiences centre around particular regional ingredients and traditions. We cannot guarantee a peanut-free or completely allergen-free trip.

Wine is part of the journey, but it isn’t the whole focus. Experiences include Gewürztraminer in Alto Adige and a vertical tasting of Amarone in Valpolicella, alongside vineyard walks that help connect the wines with the landscapes where they are produced.

September generally offers good conditions for walking, but this journey covers very different environments, from the Dolomites to Bologna. Mountain conditions can be cooler and change quickly, so layers and a waterproof jacket are important, along with comfortable walking shoes.

Yes. Travelling with Ben Groundwater and a small group makes this a sociable journey for solo travellers, with shared walks, meals, tastings and experiences throughout the trip

Accommodation is part of the experience, with characterful hotels and country stays along the route, including a family-run mountain hotel in the Dolomites and a country farmhouse surrounded by the vineyards of Valpolicella.

Yes. The itinerary deliberately balances shared experiences with time to enjoy Northern Italy at your own pace. There is free time in places including Moena and Bolzano, time to relax at the mountain hotel, and opportunities to enjoy the surroundings during the Valpolicella stay.

Responsible Travel

Regenerative Travel Project

At AMP Libearty Bear Sanctuary in Romania, rescued brown bears are given a second chance to live as they should—free to roam, forage and explore within a protected forest environment. The sanctuary provides lifelong care for bears rescued from captivity, offering a safe haven for animals that can no longer survive in the wild. Support for this project helps provide nutritious food, expert veterinary care and ongoing habitat management, ensuring every bear can live in dignity and comfort. The sanctuary also plays an important role in raising awareness about wildlife welfare, ethical tourism and the lasting impacts of animal exploitation.

Your support will help care for Jimmy, one of the sanctuary’s rescued residents. For 11 years, Jimmy was confined to a small concrete cage at a bread factory, deprived of the opportunity to behave naturally. Since his rescue, he has experienced the freedom of a natural forest habitat for the first time, feeling the earth beneath his paws and living alongside other rescued bears. By contributing to Jimmy’s ongoing care, you are helping transform the life of an individual animal while supporting the broader mission of protecting bears from cruelty and promoting compassionate wildlife conservation.

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Alps to Aperitivo: Northern Italywith Ben Groundwater

Trip highlights

Overview

Itinerary

Ready to start your adventure?