We plan to summit the peak via the northwest normal route. Difficulty grade: FR: AD/USA: AI 2/SCOT: III-. This volcano is unquestionably the centrepiece of all the historical surveys to understand the summits of Volcanic Range (Cordillera Volcánica). As a key part of the Bolivian High Andes and of course, being the highest mountain in Bolivia, it attracts increasing numbers of mountaineers who would like to try their abilities (and a bit of luck) on its glaciers and wildly eroded slopes. Although it is a relatively straightforward climb, Sajama’s altitude and ice conditions (penitentes, elongated, thin blades of hardened snow or ice, closely spaced and pointing towards the general direction of the sun) make the peak more challenging than it initially appears. Most of its glaciers are receding, so much of the route is crevasse-ridden. Our leaders will assess the conditions and decide on the route forward, which naturally given the environment will be very much weather and route condition dependent. A contingency day(day 19) is built into the itinerary to use in case of inclement weather and to increase our chances of summit success. Expect an alpine start, leaving camp at around 2 o’clock. A 30 minute scramble up via a steep scree slope takes us to the lowest tongue of the glacier which in turn takes us directly to a steep slope and (45º) climb. This section will take at least an hour, to a rocky ridge where we will traverse around exposed boulders. It is a delicate passage with deep ravines in both sides. Finally, several hours from the campsite, we reach the main glacier heading up directly to the summit. Once on the glacier we have to cross a highly penitented section before reaching the good moderate snow slope (40º). It will be an endless walk up to the summit arriving en route by many disappointing false summits. The summit is on a huge high plateau and there are many false tops before it is finally reached. Depending on conditions, it will be a total climb of 7 hours and only 2 hours descent to the high camp. Late lunch on our return where we will relax for a while and start moving down to towards base camp, which should take a further 2 hours. We expect to return to base camp by 6 o’clock, tired but fulfilled following our ascent. Overnight camping.
Meals: B,L,D